Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2024 menswear collection marked a surprising departure from his signature flair. The designer, who has made a name for himself with bold prints and vivacious colors, presented a rather subdued lineup this season, featuring loose-fitting, oversized silhouettes and a palette dominated by neutral tones. The collection’s emphasis on tailoring and color blocking felt uncharacteristically restrained for Van Noten, leaving some followers longing for the exuberance and daring that have defined his previous work.

The collection opened with a series of tailored suits in muted shades of black, tan, and dark brown. The suits were cut in a loose, relaxed fit, with wide-legged trousers and unstructured jackets. Van Noten paired the suits with simple shirts and loafers. The accessories widely used was leather handbags.

In the second half of the show, Van Noten introduced a more colorful palette, with looks in shades of purple, teal, and orange. He also experimented with more playful textures, such as print. One standout look was a purple V-neck shirt with a long train paired with form-fitting trousers.

In the collection, Van Noten’s meticulousness was discernible, though some might argue that it didn’t necessarily translate into captivating choices. While the tailoring appeared neat, and the materials seemed upmarket, the use of color blocking failed to leave a memorable impact. The stylistic choices throughout the collection came across as more reserved than would be expected.

In sum, Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2024 menswear collection, although an effort in sophistication, lacked the daring and allure that could make it stand out. The collection tried to strike a balance between timeless and contemporary but may struggle to resonate with those who seek bold, definitive statements in fashion.

Here are some of the key takeaways from the collection:

  • Tailoring was the focus of the collection, with loose, relaxed fits and unstructured jackets.
  • Muted shades of gray, navy, and brown were the dominant colors, but there were also pops of color in shades of purple, orange, and green.
  • Playful textures, such as print fabrics, were used to add interest.
  • The attention to detail was impeccable, with the tailoring all executed flawlessly.

This collection seems to be playing it safe, demonstrating a certain restraint that might be too subdued for the adventurous at heart. The muted colors and relaxed fits render the collection unchallenging and somewhat lackluster. The attempt at introducing personality through textures and color blocking doesn’t quite compensate for the absence of daring elements. For those seeking an enlivened, invigorating wardrobe, it might be worth considering giving this collection a pass.

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